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institute of fashion design
FHNW Academy of art and design in basel
Ambra Bruno

Ambra Bruno

Dolce far niente*…

I have always had a huge fascination with corsetry, historical fashion and artisanal techniques. I was also often drawn to backstage pictures of drama actors, using their mobile phones and whichever electric devices in their break times, yet, still dressed up as their historical characters.
Technology reminded me of digital immortality, and how it is unconsciously, but constantly fed: we partake into creating avatars of ourselves, distorted portrayals of how we want others to perceive us.
To me, these two have blended together into a possible future aesthetic.
Stays, pre - victorian corsets, were apparently not meant to be tight-laced to the point of being unable to breathe but instead with the intention to give the wearer an overall feeling of a gentle hug.
Through irregular lacing and flaps, this collection focuses on the different declinations of a corset and how it could be interpreted in modern times.
I broke down the finishing and the materials involved into making corsetry more comfortable and approachable: the stiffer and traditional modeling materials were replaced by softer canvas, cords and padding, keeping the body warm and protected from the inner structure. The experimentation combines variations of comfort, creating layers of warm and gentle support around the body. The padding was fastened with abstract contrast embroidery, creating curved and relaxed shapes.
Especially in unusual times of the COVID lockdowns, where individuals found themselves in difficult and isolated periods, I decided to create a collection that would bring comfort, warmth and affection into fashion, which could function as luxury loungewear. I also prioritize the mindfulness of resources, the environment and the motivation to create something that lasts.

*translates to “sweet doing nothing” or “sweet idleness”, and is used to describe when someone is enjoying the "sheer indulgence of relaxation and blissful laziness”.

@poltergeilst

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